L'Interdit returns in 2018, sixty-one years after the perfume created for Audrey Hepburn, in an entirely new formula signed by Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo and Fanny Bal. Givenchy sets a bouquet of white flowers — tuberose, orange blossom, sambac jasmine — against a base of patchouli, vetiver and ambroxan, with Rooney Mara as the face of the campaign.
Givenchy announces a contrast: a bouquet of white flowers against dark notes. Tuberose, orange blossom and sambac jasmine hold the center, bergamot and pear the opening, patchouli, vetiver and ambroxan the base.
The opening is more fruity than floral. Thomas Dunckley finds a fresh, sweet bubblegum accord, which he judges well-held rather than cheap; Despina Veneti, for her part, detects a candied cherry and a caramel that the house does not announce.
The base is lighter than announced. The patchouli stays clean there, the vetiver green, the ambroxan smooth: Dunckley speaks of a barely sketched mossy effect and refuses to see the dark notes promised. Veneti does not detect them either.
The 1957 perfume has nothing in common with it. Despina Veneti describes it as a well-blended aldehydic floral — ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, violet, iris — softened with ripe fruit, with a buttery, spicy base of sandalwood, vetiver, clove and tonka bean.
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