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Poison is the first women's fragrance Dior released without the founder's name on the box. Édouard Fléchier overdoses tuberose over a base of honey and opoponax, in an amethyst apple bottle designed by Véronique Monod. Launched in 1985, it imposed a frontal femininity the decade adopted, and one critics still argue over forty years later.

Launch year
1985
Gender
Women
Olfactory family
Oriental
Concentration
Eau de Toilette
EAN
3348900011632 (50 ml) · 3348900011687 (100 ml)

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Poison

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1985. Dior puts on sale a fragrance whose name alone is enough to start people talking, breaking with the custom that a house fragrance carried its founder's name.

A name registered before the formula

Dior secured the name Poison in 1983, before the juice existed. The house wanted a word that would stop a passerby, on the model of Opium at Yves Saint Laurent, whose success owed as much to scandal as to smell.

Susan Biehn, then head of advertising at Dior, defended an adventurous name for an adventurous product, chosen to make the buyer pause a moment at the counter.

Édouard Fléchier

The juice chosen was Édouard Fléchier's, a perfumer trained in Grasse, and his first great international success. Persolaise associates Jean Guichard with the composition; the house credits only Édouard Fléchier.

An apple that became a collection

Success turned Poison into a line. Tendre Poison opened the series in 1994, Hypnotic Poison arrived four years later, Pure Poison in 2004. Midnight Poison appeared in 2007 and Poison Girl in 2016.

The house completed the family with an extrait de parfum signed by François Demachy, which takes up the original accord while pressing on coriander, vanilla, tuberose absolute and May rose absolute.

Olfactory pyramid

  1. Top notesThe first minutes
  2. Heart notesThe heart of the perfume
  3. Base notesWhat lingers

What critics say

Three signed critics hold Poison to be a classic and an avowed excess: Elena Vosnaki praises the craft, Neil Chapman the joyful toxicity, Persolaise the abstraction. Chapman finds today's version weakened.

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What the community says

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Winter100 %
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The advertising

Isabelle Adjani, the 1985 face

Dior gave Poison to Isabelle Adjani from the 1985 launch, and the actress remained the face of the campaign for several years.

Dior chose Isabelle Adjani to carry Poison from 1985, and the actress remained the face of the campaign for several years. Her angelic image defuses what the name of the fragrance leads one to expect, and the campaign plays on that gap.

The campaign rests first on the word. Susan Biehn, then head of advertising at Dior, defended an adventurous name for an adventurous product, meant to make people hesitate for a second. The avowed model is Opium.

The name delivered. Neil Chapman files Poison among three fragrances of the 1980s turned away from restaurants and boutiques for their power, alongside Obsession and Giorgio.