Miss Dior Chérie

The 2005 press kit names six materials: green mandarin and strawberry leaf, wild strawberry sorbet and caramelised popcorn, patchouli and crystalline musk. Violet and jasmine are added to them without the house assigning either to a level.

A green opening, a confectioner's heart

Green mandarin opens on the tart side, strawberry leaf on the green side: neither hints at the confectionery of the heart.

The heart carries the find that made the fragrance known. The strawberry arrives as a sorbet, the popped corn in a caramelised version — an accord with no equivalent at the time in French luxury perfumery.

A base that holds back the sugar

Patchouli and musk close the composition. Robin, of Now Smell This, finds both of them cleaned up to the point of disturbing nobody, and it is to them that the fragrance owes not remaining a sweet.

What the listings add

The listings in circulation also carry pineapple, cherry, rose and amber, absent from the press kit as from the review at launch. Dior files the fragrance under gourmand chypre; Robin objects that it has nothing of a chypre and reads the word as a salute to the 1947 scent.