Created in 2014 by François Demachy, Dior Homme Parfum was reinterpreted in 2025 by Francis Kurkdjian, who turned it into an overdosed iris fragrance, from root to flower, set on an ambery accord of patchouli, vetiver and coumarin. The version sold today replaces the leather accord of 2014, in a new monolithic bottle.
Varanis Ridari, of The Scented Devil, reads in Francis Kurkdjian’s Parfum a softened iris, submerged in a nutty, leathery amber, softer and more romantic than the 2014 and 2020 versions, and only slightly more commercial than them.
Olfastory’s review
Varanis Ridari, The Scented Devil, January 2025
On January 12, 2025, Varanis Ridari sees in this version the start of a new cycle, in which the house perfumer reinvents the line in place of his predecessor. Iris still opens, softer and more diffuse, rendered in his view in the manner of Olivier Polge for the original Dior Homme.
Past that powdery breath, the iris recedes behind a praline, nutty material, all of it submerged in an ambery, leathery accord softened with vanilla and dried with a little vetiver. He judges it softer than the 2014 and 2020 versions, lasting but with little projection, made for romantic evenings.
The reviewer finds the change only slightly more commercial, the house pulling the fragrance toward a gourmand, nutty amber, and notes that this edition, unlike the previous ones, benefits from a full launch in the United States.