Le Premier Parfum Eau de Parfum

Lolita Lempicka launched her first fragrance in 1997; it bears her name, and the house now calls it Le Premier Parfum. Annick Menardo composed it; the designer says she drew on her most distant memories to capture the moment when a child waits to become a woman.

Osmoz describes it as the most fairy-like of fragrances, taking every woman back to the enchanted world of the tales of her childhood. Centered on licorice, it speaks to the sense of taste, and its mauve color is an invitation to the dawn and to fairies.

A gourmand in the wake of Angel

It came out five years after Mugler’s Angel, to which it is often compared. Portia of Perfume Posse calls it Angel’s most successful offspring, calmer, prettier and less strident; Victoria Frolova of Bois de Jasmin credits it with bringing licorice notes to the mainstream.

What became of the apple

The fragrance has had several lives. In 2017, for its twentieth anniversary, the house reinvented it as Mon Premier Parfum, in an apple faceted like a gemstone; it later relaunched Le Parfum, in the historic bottle, with a vegan formula certified by One Voice.