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Le Premier Parfum Eau de Parfum

Lolita Lempicka launched her first fragrance in 1997, composed by Annick Menardo: a gourmand oriental centered on licorice. Anise, licorice and violet open onto ivy, amarena cherry and iris, then a base of tonka bean, vanilla, heliotrope and white musk, in a mauve glass apple adorned with ivy.

Portia of Perfume Posse revisited it in 2017, for its twentieth anniversary, and found it still fun, easy to wear and beautiful, barely cheapened; she prefers it to Angel, whose most successful offspring it would be.

Olfastory’s review

Perfume Posse, twenty years on

On April 27, 2017, Portia bought a new bottle for the fragrance’s twentieth anniversary. She found it almost as fun, light, easy to wear and beautiful as ever, with a hint of cheapening, perhaps due to ingredients that had to be changed.

She imagines a fizzy drink of licorice, sugared almonds and praline, with none of the stickiness. No great fan of Angel, she loves this one and sees it as the most successful offspring of Mugler’s monster: calmer, prettier, less strident.