Manifesto

The house, quoted by The Hollywood Reporter, states a woody floral oriental with notes of jasmine, white flowers, lily of the valley, blackcurrant, vanilla, tonka bean, cedar and sandalwood, without tiering them. These eight materials are arranged here by tier.

Blackcurrant and green notes on top

Doré perceives an opening of blackcurrant and unripe green mango, somewhat sharp and sour, a forced move in her view to seem modern; the house names blackcurrant among its notes, alongside white flowers. Blackcurrant and the green note are placed here at the top.

Jasmine and lily of the valley in the heart

The house names jasmine, white flowers and lily of the valley, placed here in the heart. Doré does not name the flower there: she describes what follows as a creamy, milky, vanilla-tinged, almondy sillage, almost coconut, bordering on shower gel, not really off-putting.

Vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood and cedar in the base

Vanilla, tonka bean, cedar and sandalwood close out the house’s list, which calls its fragrance woody. Doré closes on a coumarin-tinged sandalwood somewhat evocative of the 1990s, in which she hears Allure by Chanel; the coumarin from the tonka bean carries, for her, that memory.

What remains outside the declared accord

The green mango, almond and coconut that Doré describes do not appear in the house’s list, nor do the grapefruit, bergamot, peach, ylang-ylang, patchouli and musks sometimes attributed to the fragrance. The known ingredients list offers only two markers, coumarin and hydroxycitronellal.