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Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée
Chanel

Composition

Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

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Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is the night fragrance Olivier Polge composed for Chanel in 2020, his first scent conceived for the night. The house describes it as a soft, sensual fruity amber: an accord of jasmine absolute and rose petals brings out the musky notes of Coco Mademoiselle, lit up by orange.

Chanel builds L’Eau Privée around a delicate accord of jasmine absolute and rose petal notes, which heightens the musky notes of Coco Mademoiselle, the softest and most sensual ones. The house pairs it with orange and white musks.

Orange at the top

The house sums up the olfactory signature of L’Eau Privée with orange, jasmine and white musks. Several 2020 reviews name mandarin instead as the opening, a citrus nuance that Chanel’s current description does not retain.

Jasmine and rose

The heart rests on the accord of jasmine absolute and rose petals, which Chanel calls delicate. Rose and jasmine already formed the sheer accord of Coco Mademoiselle; L’Eau Privée makes them the axis of its composition, without the counterpoint of patchouli.

Musks in place of woods

The base falls to white musks. In 2020, the house explained that it had toned down the woody notes of the original in favor of orange, jasmine, rose and musk; the patchouli and vetiver of the eau de parfum no longer appear in its description.

What the label declares

The ingredient list published by Chanel opens with alcohol, water and fragrance. It immediately declares a hydrogenated castor oil, which helps disperse the fragrant materials in water, and an emollient, dicaprylyl carbonate, consistent with use even on the hair.

It lists patchouli oil in seventh position, bergamot, orange and lemon oils, a jasmine extract and santalol, along with a synthetic woody-amber molecule, vanillin and coumarin. Patchouli, absent from the description, is therefore still declared.

The list also includes an antioxidant, tocopherol, three colorants, one yellow and two reds, and a UV filter; rose appears only through rose ketones. It gives no dosage: only the substances that must be declared appear on it.