Coco Mademoiselle Intense

Chanel describes the Intense as a woody amber oriental with an extreme character, built around an overdose of patchouli. The house names its other materials: an amber accord of vanilla and tonka bean, a heart of rose and jasmine, and the contrasting freshness of citrus.

Orange and bergamot at the top

The opening takes up the citrus of Coco Mademoiselle, orange and bergamot. Olivier Polge says he was keen to preserve this freshness despite the strengthened base; other descriptions from the house add lemon.

Rose and jasmine in the heart

The heart keeps the original’s floral duo, rose and jasmine, which Chanel sets against the power of the base. Some descriptions from the house add fruity notes, without specifying which.

Patchouli, tonka, and vanilla in the base

Patchouli, which the house calls extreme, luminous, and deep, gives the fragrance its voluptuous dimension. An amber accord, warm, soft, and feminine, envelops it: it pairs tonka bean with a Madagascar vanilla, which Chanel describes as absolutes.

Other descriptions add cistus, the plant that yields labdanum, and a white musk. These materials remain on the margins of the house’s main texts, which retain only the patchouli and the amber accord.

What the label declares

The ingredient list published by Chanel is short. After alcohol, fragrance, and water, it declares only allergenic substances, including coumarin, present in tonka bean, the linalool and limonene of citrus, and the geraniol and citronellol of the rose notes.

It also declares a UV filter and five colorants, two reds, a violet, a blue, and a yellow, which give the juice its tint. It names no natural essential oil, which says nothing about their absence from the formula.