Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif was released in 2025, signed by Olivier Polge, Chanel’s perfumer creator. The house describes it as created like an extrait de parfum and places it among woody ambery-aromatic fragrances. Sandalwood takes the lead role, surrounded by cistus labdanum, leathery notes and a woody amber accord. Jacob Elordi has embodied it since 2026, in a film by Alfonso Cuarón.
Igor Masyukov sees in L’Exclusif a weighed-down Bleu, stripped of its freshness and darkened by labdanum; Eddie Bulliqi, on the contrary, loves the green leather and roasted notes that make Bleu’s sticky core the main theme.
What critics say
Igor Masyukov, Fragrantica
On August 31, 2025, Igor Masyukov, who had awaited L’Exclusif with enthusiasm, finds the Bleu de Chanel profile in it but feels it has lost its transparency and freshness. In his view, Olivier Polge follows the path of houses that weighed down clean, airy profiles, such as Sauvage Elixir or Absolu Aventus.
Where the house highlights sandalwood, he mainly smells labdanum, which does not strike him as clean, and saffron-like materials that rob Bleu of its radiance. He perceives an animalic facet close to the base of Le Lion and concludes it is a major disappointment.
Eddie Bulliqi, Fragrantica
On October 1, 2025, Eddie Bulliqi takes the opposite view from his colleague. He has always found a plummy, sticky quality in Bleu’s DNA; L’Exclusif makes it the main theme and reduces freshness to a mere footnote.
He smells a green, severe leather on top, roasted notes far smokier than the original’s incense and an amber evoking roasted chestnuts, to the point of recognizing barbecue sauce in it. He loves this direction, which takes up the licorice of Sauvage Elixir with a smoothness that is all Chanel.
From the same line
More perfumes from Chanel
Also composed by Olivier Polge
- Only the BraveDiesel
- Only The Brave SilverDiesel
- Repetto Eau de ToiletteRepetto
- InvictusPaco Rabanne
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