L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake is a legendary feminine fragrance. Indeed, it was with this scent that the designer achieved his renown in the world of modern perfumery: You know, it is like girls, he said, you never forget the first one. And for me, my first fragrance was L'Eau d'Issey. It was an important starting point for my creative work. Every time I smell it, I am still moved. It is therefore only natural that it returns to the forefront in 2023, in a more floral and springlike version named L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake.
L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake is a true legend of perfumery. Created in 1992, it was surprising from its very conception. Indeed, the fashion at the time was for very heady and opulent fragrances. L'Eau d'Issey, however, relied on a much purer and airier scent. In 1993, it won the award for best feminine fragrance at the Fragrance Foundation Awards. Exactly 30 years later, it returns to the forefront and is now named L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine. So, does it live up to the legend? Here is our review.
Olfastory’s review
L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake, a very poetic vision of water
L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake first captivates through the atmosphere it exudes. It is a symbol of poetry. Indeed, it is inspired by calm water, playing with the reflections of springtime sunlight. In all simplicity, it relies on refinement, perfectly echoing the designer's world. Indeed, Issey Miyake has always wanted a fragrance that does not smell of perfume, but that has the scent of water. Once again, the challenge is brilliantly met. However, it is also an odyssey. Over the course of its long journey, it has therefore absorbed multiple olfactory nuances. L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake more precisely encounters flowers, fruits and woods. Instantly, it seems capable of making the world more beautiful. Like rain, it lends silvery reflections to cities and transforms tree leaves into sumptuous pearled adornments.
Peony, a scent entirely recreated in the laboratory
As its name indicates, L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake is a fragrance for women built around the scent of peony. However, one should not assume this is an easy task. Indeed, the scent of peony petals cannot be extracted directly. It must be entirely recreated in the laboratory. For L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake, this springlike, radiant flower reveals here a unique accord, at times floral, juicier or greener. The result is a voluptuous, aquatic and powerful sillage. For the occasion, L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake is more precisely paired with white raspberry and pear. This composition concludes with greater depth and longevity, through contact with cedarwood.
Wood, a welcome addition to the L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine bottle
As one might expect, wood is clearly present in the formula of L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake. Moreover, it is also present on the bottle of this fragrance, as if to ensure perfect coherence throughout. The top of L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake is more precisely crafted from ash wood. This element contrasts with the transparent glass. To evoke peony, the latter is tinted a delicate pink. This modern sculpture captivates through its minimalism and clean lines.
L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine by Issey Miyake, an eco-responsible fragrance
Finally, another point in favor of Issey Miyake: L'Eau d'Issey Pivoine reaffirms its commitments to protecting resources and the environment. Indeed, this fragrance contains 87% ingredients of natural origin. It is certified eco-responsible and is 100% vegan. Its bottle, meanwhile, contains 20% recycled glass. It is free of any plastic element and its top is made of natural wood.