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L'Eau d'Issey
Issey Miyaké

Composition

L'Eau d'Issey

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Issey Miyake launched L’Eau d’Issey in 1992, his first fragrance, an eau de toilette by Jacques Cavallier meant to smell of water on a woman. The house calls it an aquatic floral: a lotus and rose accord on top, lilies and peonies in the heart, and a base of precious woods, amber and musk, in a glass cone topped with a sphere, the memory of a moon above the Eiffel Tower.

The house describes an aquatic floral in three stages. On top floats a floral duo, a lotus accord and rose, which it calls delicate and powdery, and which brings out the fresh, aquatic facet of the fragrance.

Lily, peonies and precious woods

The heart pairs a lily accord with a bouquet of fresh flowers, peonies and white lilies, with a light sensuality according to the house. The base brings together exotic woods, amber, sandalwood, musk and cedar, for a trail the house wants to last.

Calone and melon

Water itself is not among the declared notes: it comes from Calone, a molecule that evokes sea spray with a melon facet. Jessica of Now Smell This finds that watermelon breeze from the opening, and again in the final trail.

The launch lists

The launch descriptions were fuller. Perfume Intelligence gives lotus, freesia, cyclamen and rosewater as top notes, peony, carnation and water lily as heart notes, and amber, tuberose, musk and precious woods as base notes; Now Smell This adds osmanthus.

What is left out

The marine note and white musks, often cited, do not appear in the presentation the house gives today, which speaks only of musk and an aquatic facet. The melon, lily of the valley and cyclamen of online lists are absent from it too.

What the label declares

No essential oil appears in the ingredient list: the lotus, the flowers and the woods are included in the word fragrance. It contains neither UV filter nor colorant, only alcohol, water and nine declared allergens.

These allergens are hydroxycitronellal, linalool, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, benzyl benzoate, farnesol, limonene and citral, compounds found in many floral and citrus essences.