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Chanel

Gardénia

Gardénia is the perfume Gabrielle Chanel asked Ernest Beaux for in 1925 to evoke her favorite flower, the white camellia, which has no scent. Reworked by Jacques Polge for the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection, launched in 2007, it now pairs a gardenia accord of jasmine, tuberose and ylang-ylang with orange blossom.

Brand
Chanel
Launch year
1925
Gender
Women
Olfactory family
Floral
Concentration
Eau de Parfum

Published · Updated

Gardénia

Where to buy

In 1925, Gabrielle Chanel asked Ernest Beaux, the creator of N°5, to evoke her favorite flower, the white camellia, in a perfume. The house recalls that this flower, whose perfect form makes one forget its lack of scent, appeared on her creations: a hat, a buttonhole or a jewel.

A gardenia for a camellia

Since the camellia has no scent, the perfume borrows its name from another white flower. Elena Vosnaki (Perfume Shrine) explains that the gardenia was chosen for its visual resemblance to the camellia; Gardénia was never conceived as a soliflore, she stresses, but as a floral fantasy.

According to her, the original version circulated into the 1950s, before fading behind N°19 and Cristalle. Chanel brought it back around 1990 in the circuit of its rue Cambon boutiques, alongside Cuir de Russie and Bois des Îles.

Les Exclusifs

In 2007, Jacques Polge, Chanel’s perfumer, launched Les Exclusifs de Chanel, ten fragrances including four creations by Ernest Beaux that he restored: N°22, Cuir de Russie, Gardénia and Bois des Îles. Gardénia was reworked there to meet current regulations.

The house now offers it as an eau de parfum in 75 and 200 ml, as a scented body oil and, in the Les Extraits de Chanel collection, as an extrait presented in a case, as a purse spray and as an extrait-in-oil.

Olfactory pyramid

  1. Heart notesThe heart of the perfume
  2. Base notesWhat lingers

What critics say

Elena Vosnaki (Perfume Shrine) finds the Les Exclusifs version thin, transparent and easy to wear, far from the romantic imagery of the gardenia; Jean-Claude Ellena, for his part, prefers this Gardénia, which smells, he writes, of happiness rather than the flower.

Read what critics say

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The advertising

The gardens of the Riviera

An American advertisement cited by Elena Vosnaki praised Gardénia as a youthful fragrance, evoking the romantic gardens of the Riviera.

Elena Vosnaki cites an American advertisement that presented Gardénia as a youthful fragrance meant to evoke the romantic gardens of the Riviera. She links it to the vogue for gardenia perfumes in the 1930s, presented as an escape in difficult times.

Today, the house tells Gardénia’s story on its page through a film devoted to the history of the camellia, this imaginary creation, and through an interview with its perfumer about the notes of the fragrance.

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