Bleu de Chanel Parfum, launched in June 2018, is the third concentration in Chanel’s men’s line, after the 2010 eau de toilette and the 2014 eau de parfum. Olivier Polge keeps the outline of Bleu and gives more room to the woods: lemon zest, lavender and geranium rest on cedar and New Caledonian sandalwood.
One signed reading: Thomas Dunckley, of The Candy Perfume Boy, recognizes Bleu at first contact, less citrusy and more aromatic, and enjoys the clash of a rough cedar and a creamy sandalwood, which gives the Parfum a denser bearing.
What critics say
Thomas Dunckley, The Candy Perfume Boy
Thomas Dunckley discovers Bleu de Chanel Parfum in May 2018, before its release. He judges the line the best of its kind, a very well executed modern aromatic masculine, and recognizes the Parfum at first contact, less brisk and less centered on citrus.
The spices and citrus of the older concentrations give way to a rougher lavender and geranium, with a more aromatic turn. Where the original sought the cool air of the treetops in a pine forest, the Parfum, to him, starts from the forest floor.
He most enjoys the base, where a rough, prickly cedar collides with the creamy New Caledonian sandalwood. That tension makes the fragrance livelier, like a balance always about to give way, and gives it a denser, more typically masculine, less polished bearing.
The Parfum does nothing radically new, he finds, but it achieves its aim: a recognizable Bleu, with more marked and graver woods. He sees little reason to own more than one of the three concentrations and hesitates between the supple woods of the Parfum and the freshness of the eau de parfum.
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