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Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Baccarat Rouge 540

Baccarat Rouge 540 is the eau de parfum Francis Kurkdjian composed in 2014 for the 250th anniversary of the Baccarat crystal works, before taking it into his own house in 2016. Its name recalls the 540 °C that turns the crystal red. The house describes a floral amber woody fragrance built on three auras: jasmine and saffron, an ambergris accord carried by Ambroxan, and ethyl maltol for the gourmand accent.

Launch year
2014
Gender
Unisex
Olfactory family
Floral
Secondary families
Oriental Woody
Concentration
Eau de Parfum

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Baccarat Rouge 540

Where to buy

In 2013, the Baccarat crystal works, founded in 1764, commissioned Francis Kurkdjian to create a perfume for its 250th anniversary. The perfumer drew on one of the manufacture’s secrets, rouge à l’or: mixed with 24-carat gold powder and heated to 540 °C, clear crystal takes on an intense red color.

The perfume came out in the fall of 2014 as a limited edition of 250 numbered crystal bottles. Kurkdjian says he sought a graphic formula, taut and condensed to the extreme; the house speaks of an eau de parfum that evokes both the transparency and the density of crystal.

From Baccarat to the house

The edition sold quickly. Kurkdjian gave a bottle to Kelly St. John, then head of beauty at the American department store Neiman Marcus; the compliments she received led her to suggest that he sell it. An agreement with Baccarat allowed him to take it over under his own name.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian, founded in 2009 by the perfumer and Marc Chaya, launched Baccarat Rouge 540 in its own bottle in January 2016. In March 2017, LVMH took a majority stake in the house, whose two founders kept their management roles and a share of the capital.

A phenomenon

The perfume became one of the best-selling in the world, carried by TikTok content creators. Its success spawned a host of inexpensive imitations, which buyers seek out as cheaper equivalents of the original.

The line has grown to include an extrait de parfum, body care and a candle. In 2025, Kurkdjian presented the Édition Millésime, an exceptional version housed in a red crystal bottle shaped by Baccarat’s artisans.

Olfactory pyramid

  1. Top notesThe first minutes
  2. Heart notesThe heart of the perfume
  3. Base notesWhat lingers

What critics say

Angela (Now Smell This) hears a disconcerting amalgam, Gaia (The Non-Blonde) a burning clarity, Victoria Frolova (Bois de Jasmin) a well-built crystalline giant that is nonetheless overbearing.

Read what critics say

What the community says

LongevityShort
Fleeting1 voteAll day
SillageGenerous
Intimate1 voteOverpowering

Season

Autumn100 %
1 vote

Occasion

Evening100 %
1 vote

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Longevity
Sillage
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Resembles

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The advertising

L’Alchimie des sens, at the Palais de Tokyo

Made famous by TikTok, Baccarat Rouge 540 is celebrated by the house at the Palais de Tokyo and in the documentary ICON(S).

Baccarat Rouge 540 rose to fame on TikTok: its content creators lifted it among the best-selling perfumes in the world, and videos devoted to its imitations kept the phenomenon going.

The house celebrated the perfume with an immersive, multisensory work, L’Alchimie des sens, presented at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris and inspired by the Édition Millésime. Composer David Chalmin, pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque, chef Anne-Sophie Pic, sculptor Elias Crespin and stage director Cyril Teste worked on it with Kurkdjian.

The documentary ICON(S): Maison Francis Kurkdjian, produced by Terminal 9 Studios, traces the history of the perfume and the genesis of this work. The house screened it in its historic boutique at 5 rue d’Alger, in Paris, alongside an exhibition devoted to the perfume’s genesis.

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