Angélique Noire
Guerlain launched Angélique Noire in 2005 to open its L’Art et la Matière collection. Daniela Andrier sets the green bitterness of angelica against the house’s vanilla, with pink pepper, pear and cedar. Sylvaine Delacourte wanted to give vanilla an opposite. Victoria, of Bois de Jasmin, smells a creamy vanilla; Cécile Clouet speaks of a joyful oxymoron.
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Guerlain launched Angélique Noire in 2005 with Cuir Beluga and Rose Barbare, three fragrances that opened the L’Art et la Matière collection for the reopening of its boutique at 68, avenue des Champs-Élysées. Daniela Andrier, a Givaudan perfumer, signed the formula.
A commission from Sylvaine Delacourte
Sylvaine Delacourte, who then headed fragrance development at Guerlain, orchestrated the collection: each nose was to express freely a passion for a rare raw material. For the house’s vanilla, she was looking for an unusual companion, an opposite, and chose an angelica note by Daniela Andrier.
Angelica takes her back to her childhood, she recalls: the green, candied stems that decorated Sunday cakes. At its release, the fragrance was sold only at the Champs-Élysées boutique, at 140 euros for 75 ml.
The 2021 relaunch
In 2021, Guerlain relaunched the L’Art et la Matière collection with a new refillable bottle; Angélique Noire remained in it, alongside Spiritueuse Double Vanille. The house now compares the fragrance to Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake, the white swan and the black swan, bitterness and sweetness drawn to each other.
Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s master perfumer, sees it as a chiaroscuro fragrance, in which the bitter flower, facing an elixir of vanilla, gains in seduction.
Olfactory pyramid
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