Pleats Please is the fruity floral eau de toilette Issey Miyake launched in July 2012, signed by Aurélien Guichard of Givaudan. It pays tribute to the designer’s line of pleated clothing: nashi pear at the top, peony and sweet pea at the heart, cedar, patchouli, vanilla and white musks in the base, in a bottle cut as a polyhedron.
Victoria, on Bois de Jasmin, found in 2013 a well-made fruity floral, crisp and sparkling, nothing new and too sweet for her taste; Robin, on Now Smell This, frankly hated it, faulting a heavy, synthetic opening, despite a bottle she adores.
What critics say
Bois de Jasmin, July 2013
On July 11, 2013, Victoria opens on a juicy apple and an orange, crisp like chilled fruit taken from the refrigerator. The fragrance slides toward a pale rose and a jasmine, in an abstract floral accord that suggests by turns tuberose and violet.
She places Pleats Please among fruity white florals, alongside Juicy Couture and Elie Saab, with a Light Blue accent and a little of Angel’s patchouli. More nectar than pastry, it strikes her as much sweeter than she likes.
She sees in it neither a new interpretation nor a future classic, but a well-made composition, crisp and sparkling, an easy and very feminine choice. She gives it three stars out of five.
Now Smell This, January 2013
On January 17, 2013, Robin expected Pleats Please to be a new pillar for a brand made up mostly of L’Eau d’Issey flankers. She finds the opening heavy and sweet rather than sparkling, with a synthetic character she deplores.
The fruity, musky heart veils generic flowers with a clean patchouli, over an increasingly powdery, barely spicy base. She sees it as a fruity floriental rather than a fruity floral and compares it to Lanvin’s Rumeur.
She admits she pretty much hated it, despite a bottle she adores, and invites her readers to try it, since the other reviews she had read were positive.
More perfumes from Issey Miyaké
Also composed by Aurélien Guichard
- Love in ParisNina Ricci
- Narciso Eau de ToiletteNarciso Rodriguez
- For Her L'EauNarciso Rodriguez
- Gucci GuiltyGucci
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