Mandarina Corsica is the Corsican stop of Les Paysages, signed by Quentin Bisch in 2018. The subject is not the maquis but a confection: the candied mandarin. The house names three materials for it, mandarin, immortelle and tonka bean, and the perfumer uses an integral mandarin, extracted from zest and flesh at once.
Clara Muller, in Auparfum, sees a mandarin of the dessert table rather than of cologne, saved from cloying by the salty immortelle.
What critics say
Clara Muller, Auparfum (2021)
The critic of the magazine Nez places the juice at the dessert table rather than among the colognes. She finds the peel that children pinch to squirt at one another, the rasping bitterness of the green leaves that mark out Corsican mandarins, and above all the tart flesh of the fruit — sensations of the mouth, she says, more than of the nose.
She credits that realism to the integral mandarin. The boiled sugar darkens toward the image of candy floss without ever turning cloying, the tonka bean calls up a mandarin crème brûlée, and the immortelle brings its almost salty notes of curry and maquis. Her judgment holds in one phrase: a radically gourmand and singular perfume.
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