Abyssae joined L’Artisan Parfumeur’s La Botanique collection in 2022, the seventh signature by Daphné Bugey for this series. A cold eucalyptus, a restrained Damask rose, a green fig, a woody cashmeran: the house sought here the scent of an abyssal flora. The number 33 in its launch name refers to the number of attempts before reaching the right formula.
For Jeanne Doré, Abyssae shifts rose into translucent, vegetal territory; she finds its price too high.
Olfastory’s review
Auparfum — Jeanne Doré, June 8, 2023
The critic sees Daphné Bugey taking rose into translucent, vegetal and pared-down territory, far from the opulent trappings the flower is usually surrounded with. She places Abyssae alongside L’Ombre dans l’eau by Diptyque and Savoy Steam by Penhaligon’s, and speaks of a bared rose that seems to be taking a sauna.
She notes the absence of calone or an ozonic accord: the aquatic dimension comes through a crisp, vegetal humidity, at most a touch of seaweed, which the eucalyptus underscores with an almost medicinal woody presence. Her reservation concerns the price, which she considers too high given the pleasure delivered.