Dune

The house traces the fragrance back to three raw materials, where twelve carry the composition.

Mandarin, peony, vanilla

Mandarin opens it. The whole Mediterranean basin grows the mandarin tree, the house notes, but Sicily gives the best quality; yellow, green and red mark stages of the fruit's ripeness.

The peony accord holds the center. The house describes a round, voluminous flower, floral, green and fruity in scent, recalling rose and lily of the valley through its green facets, and credits it with airy, serene accords.

Vanilla closes it. Its pods are harvested before ripeness and undergo thirty-four months of curing, the time it takes for the crystals to form and the scent to develop, sweet and spicy.

What the house no longer states

Bergamot, a green note and rosewood accompany the mandarin at the opening. Rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and lily surround the peony. Benzoin, oakmoss and patchouli join the vanilla in the base.

Peony, which the house gives as its declared heart, does not appear among the twelve raw materials carried here: the gap between what the house announces and the full composition reads both ways.

What the label declares

The list the house publishes for the Dioriginals version has twenty-nine entries. Two synthetic molecules head the declared substances: a musk, hexamethylindanopyran, and a woody amber note, tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. Vanillin and coumarin appear as well.

Patchouli oil and rose extract are the two natural materials named, and no oakmoss is declared. A UV filter and a stabilizer protect the juice, tinted by three colorants, red, yellow and purple.