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Christian Dior

Diorissimo Eau de Parfum

Diorissimo Eau de Parfum is the reinterpretation, dated 2009 by the house, of the lily of the valley that Edmond Roudnitska composed for Christian Dior in 1956. François Demachy made it denser than the original eau de toilette, enriched with jasmine and rose absolutes around the couturier’s lucky flower. Bergamot and green notes open it; sandalwood and civet ground it.

Gender
Women
Olfactory family
Floral
Concentration
Eau de Parfum
EAN
3348900929524 (50 ml)

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Diorissimo Eau de Parfum

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Christian Dior’s lucky flower

Lily of the valley was Christian Dior’s favorite flower. The house recounts that he slipped a sprig into the hems of his designs on show days, out of superstition. Diorissimo was born of this flower in 1956, composed by Edmond Roudnitska, who ten years later would create Eau Sauvage.

His son Michel Roudnitska recounts that the beds of lily of the valley in the family garden at Cabris served the perfumer as a model, and that Christian Dior adopted the composition on his first visit to the laboratory. He sees it as a return to nature, against the heavy, sweet perfumes of the time.

François Demachy’s eau de parfum

The house dates to 2009 the eau de parfum signed by François Demachy and presents it as a reflection of the original eau de toilette: a thicker creation, enriched with jasmine and rose absolutes. It belongs to Les Créations de Monsieur Dior, the collection of the house’s historic fragrances.

The 1956 formula was reworked to comply with IFRA restrictions. Michel Roudnitska attributes this to a main component left without a true substitute; Thomas Dunckley, of The Candy Perfume Boy, points to hydroxycitronellal, the key lily of the valley molecule, whose use is now limited.

Olfactory pyramid

  1. Top notesThe first minutes
  2. Heart notesThe heart of the perfume
  3. Base notesWhat lingers

What critics say

Victoria Frolova (Bois de Jasmin) sees Diorissimo as a transparent, airy lily of the valley beyond time, and finds the eau de parfum richer and denser, carried by jasmine; Michel Roudnitska judges the reworked version still very close to the original, while Thomas Dunckley (The Candy Perfume Boy) finds it pretty but unmoving next to the vintage.

Read what critics say

What the community says

LongevityAll day
Fleeting1 voteAll day
SillageGenerous
Intimate1 voteOverpowering

Season

Spring100 %
1 vote

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The advertising

René Gruau's line, 1956-1979

Dated 1956 by the house, René Gruau's illustration shows a woman seen from behind holding a bouquet of lily of the valley; its advertisements ran until 1979.

The house's official chronology dates a René Gruau advertising illustration for Diorissimo to 1956. Osmoz describes the image: a woman seen from behind, holding a bouquet of lily of the valley. The exhibition Dior Illustrated: René Gruau and the Line of Beauty, held in London in 2010, reports that the original 1956 drawing showed the woman nude and that Dior asked Gruau to dress her in a black sheath; the originals on display were done in ink, gouache, and pencil.

Gruau's line accompanied the fragrance well beyond its launch. A catalog of vintage advertisements lists insertions from 1961 and 1968 grouping Miss Dior, Diorama, and Diorissimo, a 1963 advertisement titled “The Ultimate Summer Fragrance,” and a placement still running in 1979. A gallery links this series to a broader body of work: the illustrator had already signed the campaign for Miss Dior, the house's first fragrance, before those for Diorama, Diorissimo, and Eau Sauvage.