Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Toilette

Chanel describes the eau de toilette as a fresh-amber, fruity, airy accord. The house names Sicilian grapefruit at the top, rose, jasmine and lychee for the heart, and leaves the base unnamed, describing it as made of soft notes.

Sicilian grapefruit at the top

According to the house, freshness reveals itself intensely at the top with Sicilian grapefruit. The notes published at the launch paired it with Sicilian orange and Calabrian bergamot, two citrus fruits that the ingredient list still declares in the form of essential oils.

Rose, jasmine and lychee

The heart combines rose and jasmine petals, punctuated by the fruity note of lychee. At the launch, the house described a sparkling, luminous lychee lighting up rosebud and Italian jasmine; together with grapefruit, it sets the eau de toilette apart from the eau de parfum.

A base of soft notes

Chanel no longer details the base, which it calls soft. The launch notes brought together Indonesian patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Bourbon vanilla and white musks, worked into a new balance with gentler notes for a soft, mellow base.

Compared with the eau de parfum

The eau de parfum now opens on orange and closes on patchouli and vetiver, in an accord the house calls amber-woody. The eau de toilette remains an amber, but Chanel steers it toward the fresh, the fruity and the floral, from Sicilian grapefruit to lychee.

What the label declares

The ingredient list published by Chanel opens with alcohol, water and fragrance. Ingredients are declared in descending order of concentration: here water comes before fragrance, whereas the eau de parfum’s list places fragrance before water.

Patchouli oil appears as early as fifth position, alongside bergamot, orange and lemon oils, a jasmine extract, santalol and sandalwood oil, a wood that the official notes of the eau de toilette do not name.

The list also shows a synthetic woody-amber molecule, a musky lactone, vanillin and coumarin, which echo the musks and vanilla of the launch. Three colorants, red, yellow and blue, tint the liquid, and a UV filter protects it from light.

Compared with that of the eau de parfum, the eau de toilette’s list adds lemon oil and declares no rose extract: the flower appears only through rose ketones. No list gives any dosage, and only the substances that must be declared appear on it.