Thierry Wasser composed Santal Royal for Guerlain in 2014, a woody oriental first reserved for the Middle East and the Salon de Parfums at Harrods. Guerlain now offers it in the Absolus Allegoria collection: a rare sandalwood rising in the half-light, between the dark notes of leather and oud and the brightness of jasmine and rose.
Guerlain’s current page names sandalwood, heightened by a musky tincture exclusive to the house, rose essence, leather, an oud accord and jasmine. It does not break the fragrance down into tiers; the tiers used here follow those the house published in 2014, preserved by Kafkaesque.
The 2014 list was longer: neroli and jasmine at the top; peach, rose and cinnamon for the heart; sandalwood, leather, amber, oud and musks in the base. The Moodie Davitt Report put neroli and cinnamon at the top. Neroli, peach, cinnamon, amber and musk are absent from the current notes.
Kafkaesque then described the fragrance as a woody oriental, mysterious and syrupy, in the house’s own words. For the Absolus Allegoria version, Guerlain announces more than 90% natural-origin ingredients, French beet alcohol included, without publishing a pyramid specific to this reformulation.
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