Fou d’Absinthe appeared in 2006, signed by Olivia Giacobetti for L’Artisan Parfumeur. The subject is the green fairy of bohemian Paris, the liquor of the Belle Époque and its nights at the Moulin Rouge. The house makes of it a play of temperatures: absinthe and angelica in a cold opening, four spices in warm contrast, dry pine needles to finish.
Twelve materials across three tiers, cut by the house itself, which writes its juice in three movements.
The cold opening
An aromatic bouquet of angelica and absinthe opens. The relays add the blackcurrant bud, which Gaia Fishler also finds and which the German page of the house names. The effect sought is explosive and green.
The spiced middle
Star anise, icy, enters into contrast with four warm spices: pepper, clove, nutmeg and ginger. Earthy patchouli carries them, and the house places it at this tier.
A German relay ranks patchouli at the base. The house, in its French version, gives it in the middle, and the American relay Aedes does the same: this is the reading kept here.
The resinous base
Dry pine needles stand against the liqueur-like fir resin. The house adds cistus in its English version, a material that Gaia Fishler and the Now Smell This list name as well.
What stays out
Aedes and two American resellers carry an incense at the base that the house names nowhere. Aedes further classes the juice as a fougère, when the house writes a woody warmth and a spiced freshness: it is the house that fixes the family.
What the label declares
Ten entries: denatured alcohol, water, fragrance, and seven regulated allergens — linalool, coumarin, eugenol, hydroxycitronellal, limonene, geraniol, citral. No substance banned in the European Union appears there. Printemps, Sephora, 24S, Liberty and two German retailers serve the same one, word for word.
Two resellers, outside the Union, serve another, which carries butylphenyl methylpropional. That material has been banned in the Union since 1 March 2022: their list does not hold for France and stays out.