La Colle Noire

The house now describes La Colle Noire as the silhouette of a plump, piquant, almost wild rose, knotted with spicy and woody notes over a patchouli base. It does not split its notes by layer; Isabelle Cerboneschi set out one such breakdown in 2021.

Lemon at the top

Isabelle Cerboneschi describes a lemon that bursts at the top and quickly gives way to the rose. In 2016, Portia noticed in the opening a wet, bright, slightly metallic rose and a tart fruity note that she associated with citrus or blackcurrant.

May rose and fruits at the heart

The heart brings together, according to Isabelle Cerboneschi, May rose, peony and lily of the valley, blended with blackcurrant, raspberry and peach. Demachy describes the centifolia in bloom as fleshy, honeyed and fruity; in 2016, Jeanne Doré announced a rose dressed in fruity notes.

Musk, woods and patchouli at the base

Clove heralds the base, Isabelle Cerboneschi writes: white musk, sandalwood, amber, heliotrope and oud wood, which give body to the bouquet. The house now adds a patchouli base, whose essential oil the ingredient list declares.

The three materials of 2016

At launch, Dior named only three materials: an absolute of May rose at the top, a Sri Lankan sandalwood at the heart and white musks at the base. Jeanne Doré added clove, guaiac wood and fruity notes.

What remains outside the declared accord

Clove, which Isabelle Cerboneschi places at the hinge between heart and base, and the guaiac mentioned by Jeanne Doré have no declared layer. Geranium, bergamot and vanillin, named only by the ingredient list, receive none either: that list describes a formula.

What the label declares

Thirty-one lines make up the list published by Dior. Behind alcohol, Parfum and water come acetyl cedrene, citronellol, limonene, a UV filter, patchouli oil, santalol, geraniol, rose oil, sandalwood oil, pinene and eugenol.

The list also names rose ketones, vanillin, linalool, beta-caryophyllene, geranium oil, geranyl acetate, terpinolene, clove oil, citral, hydroxycitronellal, farnesol, bergamot oil, terpineol and alpha-terpinene.

Three colorants, violet, red and yellow, close the list. Six essential oils appear by name, patchouli, sandalwood, rose, geranium, clove and bergamot; it declares neither lilial nor lyral.