Jules was released in 1980, composed by Jean Martel for Dior, fourteen years after Eau Sauvage. A green, animalic fougère, it borrows its name from the slang term for a boyfriend. The house now brings it back to galbanum from Iran, black pepper from India and cedar from Virginia. Francis Kurkdjian restores it on October 1, 2026.
The house brings the fragrance back to three raw materials, where the 1980 composition carried a good many more.
Galbanum, black pepper, cedar
Galbanum opens it. The plant grows in Iran and Afghanistan; its gum is harvested by incising the roots, and distillation draws from it an essence that suits green, chypre and herbaceous tonalities. The house hears in it a touch of impertinence.
Black pepper from India holds the center. Its essence comes from the steam distillation of the ripe fruit, and the house credits it with a stimulating effect that gives the scent body.
Cedar from Virginia anchors the base. Its essence, obtained by steam distillation, serves as the base of several of the house's masculine fragrances, from Dior Homme to Dune pour Homme.
The fougère and the chypre
The house classes Jules among woody fougères with spicy accents. Kurkdjian speaks of an aromatic amber fougère, Lauryn Beer of a green fougère: the genre is the same, the emphasis differs.
Lauryn Beer describes an opening of fresh herbs, cyclamen, lavender and bergamot, an animalic note half leather, half spice that lingers after a few moments, and a cumin that ends up naming itself without ever pushing the other materials aside.
The heart is floral, in her account: a deep rose against a slightly peppery carnation, sandalwood, the scent of suede gloves. The cedar and oakmoss of the base pull the fragrance back toward the masculine.
What is left out
Mugwort, laurel and clary sage in the top, and carnation in the heart, carry the composition without appearing among the three raw materials the house highlights today.
What the label declares
The list the house publishes for the Dioriginals version has fifty-three entries, the longest in the collection. Patchouli oil heads it, ahead of linalyl acetate, hexyl cinnamal and a musk; lavender and coumarin confirm the fougère genre.
It also names clove, cedar, oakmoss, eucalyptus, bergamot, sandalwood, jasmine and Peru balsam, with cinnamyl alcohol and isoeugenol. No colorant is declared: the juice is not tinted.
Similar perfumes
Similar notes and family, from other houses.
- Ungaro IIIEmanuel Ungaro
- Men's classicCantilene
- Jimmy Choo Man ParfumJimmy Choo
- JazzYves Saint Laurent
- Invictus IntensePaco Rabanne
- L'HommeYves Saint Laurent
- KourosYves Saint Laurent
- Lanvin L'HommeLanvin