Emanuel Ungaro launched Diva in 1983: it was his house’s first fragrance, dedicated to women. Jacques Polge, of Chanel, signed the formula, with François Demachy according to critics. A chypre oriental for the house, it brings together aldehydes, citrus, spices and tuberose in the top, rose, iris, narcissus and ylang-ylang in the heart, and honey, patchouli, amber and sandalwood in the base.
For Jeanne Doré of Auparfum, Diva is a hidden treasure of the 1980s, a great cult chypre, sensual without aggression, complex and coherent.
What critics say
A lyrical chypre
On December 8, 2008, Jeanne Doré devoted a review to Diva for Auparfum. She sees it as a hidden treasure of 1980s perfumery, with the poise and stature of a great cult chypre, and it does not seem to her to have been disfigured by reformulation.
The very vintage opening plays an aldehydic, soapy mandarin, soon overtaken by a rich, velvety, spicy floral bouquet. Rose and tuberose are coated in waxy honey, lifted by cardamom, coriander and carnation.
What strikes her is a powdery smoothness, dense and airy at once, which she attributes to the iris notes, musks, moss and woods. She reads it as a femme fatale fragrance, sensual without being aggressive, complex and coherent, born in her view in the best creative conditions, at Chanel.
More perfumes from Emanuel Ungaro
Also composed by Jacques Polge
- 31 rue CambonChanel
- Coco Eau de ToiletteChanel
- N°5Chanel
- N°5 Winter CaseChanel
Also composed by François Demachy
- Miss Dior Le ParfumChristian Dior
- Gris DiorChristian Dior
- MitzahChristian Dior
- Patchouli ImpérialChristian Dior
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