Emanuel Ungaro launched Diva in 1983: it was his house’s first fragrance, dedicated to women. Jacques Polge, of Chanel, signed the formula, with François Demachy according to critics. A chypre oriental for the house, it brings together aldehydes, citrus, spices and tuberose in the top, rose, iris, narcissus and ylang-ylang in the heart, and honey, patchouli, amber and sandalwood in the base.
The house speaks of a cult chypre, elegant and imposing. In the top, aldehydes, bergamot, cardamom, coriander, mandarin and tuberose; in the heart, iris, jasmine, narcissus, carnation, rose and ylang-ylang.
The base brings together amber, sandalwood, honey, musk, patchouli, vanilla and vetiver. The house classes Diva among oriental chypres; the encyclopedia Perfume Intelligence sees it as an aldehydic, floral and amber chypre.
What stays out
Older lists, including that of Perfume Intelligence, distinguished a Damask rose and a centifolia rose, and placed civet, labdanum and oakmoss in the base. Oakmoss still appears in the ingredient list; civet no longer appears in current descriptions.
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Similar notes and family, from other houses.
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Also composed by Jacques Polge
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Also composed by François Demachy
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- Patchouli ImpérialChristian Dior