Colonia Pura is the clear reading François Demachy gave in 2017 of the 1916 Colonia. Bergamot, orange and petitgrain open wide, sambac jasmine and narcissus hold a clean heart lifted by coriander, and a base of cedar, patchouli and musk closes without weighing it down. A daytime cologne, claimed as simple.
Acqua di Parma states an opening of bergamot and orange from Italy lifted by petitgrain, a heart of sambac jasmine absolute and narcissus absolute held by coriander oil, and a base of cedar, patchouli and musk.
Italian citrus in the opening
Bergamot gives the brightness, orange a sweeter roundness, petitgrain the green and slightly bitter note that keeps the whole away from fruit juice. The stated effect is one of full sun, open and without heavy material.
Two absolutes and a spice
Sambac jasmine brings an almost soapy clarity, narcissus a green and mineral facet, given as the distinctive point of the heart. Coriander oil lays down a spicy freshness that keeps these flowers away from sweetness.
A base that does not weigh
Cedar, patchouli and musk close the composition without weighing it down. The house speaks of warm and sophisticated accents; the dominant impression remains one of sustained cleanliness, which explains a long longevity for an Eau de Cologne concentration.
What the label declares
The house list counts thirteen entries: alcohol, fragrance, water, and ten regulated allergens — limonene, hexyl cinnamal, linalool, alpha-isomethyl ionone, coumarin, citral, geraniol, citronellol, benzyl alcohol and benzyl benzoate. Coumarin and ionone signal there an aromatic and powdery part that the stated notes do not name.