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Diorama

Diorama is the second fragrance of the house of Dior. Edmond Roudnitska composed it in 1949, a fruity chypre built on the Prunol base he was fond of. The house reissued it in 2010 under Les Créations de Monsieur Dior, in a version it attributes to François Demachy: ylang-ylang and bergamot at the opening, jasmine and fruit at the centre, patchouli and cedar at the base.

Nine materials make up the version sold today, the one the house attributes to François Demachy.

Ylang, fruit, patchouli

Ylang-ylang and bergamot open, a creamy flower from the Comoros against a clean citrus, an accord Vosnaki describes as a tart bergamot carried by a bright yellow ylang.

The centre brings together jasmine and rose, caraway, peach and plum. Vosnaki hears there a particularly vivid Damask rose, and an indeterminate white flower between jasmine and caramelised immortelle.

Patchouli and cedar close. The house uses a patchouli steam-distilled from dried leaves, a material it reserves for its chypres, its woody and its oriental fragrances.

What the 1949 version carried

Roudnitska's juice was a fruity chypre, set on the Prunol base that gave it its density of ripe fruit. Oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum, castoreum and civet held its base, far from the reissue.

What stays out

Virginia cedar falls back on the reference list's Cedar, its qualifier remaining here. The oakmoss Vosnaki says is absent from the current juice does not enter. Cumin and melon belong to the older versions.