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Cerruti

1881 Femme

Claire Cain signed in 1995 the feminine counterpart of 1881, five years after the masculine. The whole fragrance revolves around a flax flower note that does not exist: the plant yields no extract, the note is reconstructed from scratch, and it ties the bottle to the house's fabrics. Around it, a very wide bouquet of mimosa, violet, freesia, jasmine, narcissus and tuberose, over a dry base of sandalwood and musks.

Brand
Cerruti
Launch year
1995
Gender
Women
Olfactory family
Floral
Concentration
Eau de Toilette
1881 Femme

Where to buy

Five years after the masculine, Cerruti gives 1881 its feminine counterpart. The brief is the same, a fragrance that speaks for the house, but the number engraved on the bottle still refers to the loom of Biella, never to a flower.

A flower with no smell

Flax is the house's signature material, the one from which Nino Cerruti built a signature cut. To translate it into perfume, a flax flower was needed. The plant itself yields no usable extract.

The note was therefore built entirely from scratch, from materials that have nothing to do with the plant. It does not imitate a model, it invents one, the way perfumery has long done for lily of the valley or lilac.

The stance is worth noting. A fabric house commissions a textile flower, and the perfumer delivers a smell that has never existed anywhere but in the bottle. The fragrance's thread is a fiction owned as such.

Claire Cain, a sole signature

The composition is credited to Claire Cain alone. Her name circulates far less than that of the masculine's perfumer, even though both juices have held their place on the shelf for three decades and occupy the same standing in the house's catalog.

A pink bottle, from the same designer

Serge Mansau, who had designed the masculine's bottle, reprises its lines for the feminine. Same frosted glass, same softened edges, but a pink tint that has long served to identify it on the shelf.

In 2015, the Édition Blanche entrusted a reinterpretation to Annick Menardo: a mimosa heart punctuated with heliotrope, vanilla and powdery musks, in an opaque white bottle evoking a whitewashed Mediterranean wall.

A floral that the shelf files separately

The family reads as floral, but the sandalwood and musk base pulls toward woody, to the point that most descriptions call it a floral-woody. The fragrance sits at the edge of two categories without settling into either.

Olfactory pyramid

  1. Top notesThe first minutes
  2. Heart notesThe heart of the perfume
  3. Base notesWhat lingers

Olfastory’s review

Thirty years on the shelf and a modest price have made 1881 pour Femme a fragrance that is given as a gift more than chosen. Its cleanness and a sillage that does not go beyond arm's length are praised; it is criticized for a bouquet so wide that it ends up naming nothing. The longest-standing wearers describe a denser earlier version.

Read the review

What the community says

LongevityLong
Fleeting1 voteAll day
SillageGenerous
Intimate1 voteOverpowering

Season

Spring100 %
1 vote

Occasion

Day50 %
1 vote
Work50 %
1 vote

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