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New Look 1947
Christian Dior

Composition

New Look 1947

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Dior launched New Look 1947 in 2010 in La Collection Privée, composed by François Demachy. The name refers to Christian Dior’s first fashion show, on February 12, 1947. The house classifies it as a spicy floral: ylang-ylang and peony, tuberose, rose, jasmine and iris, over a base of benzoin and vanilla. In 2024, another New Look, signed by Francis Kurkdjian, joined the same collection.

The house declares eight materials: ylang-ylang, peony, Indian tuberose, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac, Tuscan iris, Siam benzoin and Madagascar vanilla. It does not divide them into top, heart and base notes.

A critic’s reading

In 2013, Kafkaesque described an opening dominated by ylang-ylang, jasmine, peony and rose, with tuberose staying in the background. Powdery iris takes over, and the base keeps jasmine and iris over vanilla and benzoin.

Following this reading, ylang-ylang and peony sit in the top, tuberose, rose, jasmine and iris in the heart, benzoin and vanilla in the base, where the house makes no choice.

Tuberose in the background

The name and the list promise a tuberose; reviews describe instead an abstract floral in which no flower stands out. Octavian Coifan compares it to J’adore l’Or, for this fusion of flowers into a single impression.

What stays out

The pink pepper, pepper and woody notes of older descriptions do not belong to the house’s list. After forty minutes, Kafkaesque perceives a peppery wood that he attributes to Iso E Super: that is his impression, not a declared material.