Tenebrae joined L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Natura Fabularis collection in 2016, six imaginary gardens signed by Daphné Bugey. The Latin name says darkness, and the number that preceded it at launch gives the count of attempts. Incense, resin and sap make up a forest so dense that light barely gets through.
Three named materials, none assigned a tier by the house. The idea fits in a few words: a forest of incense.
Incense, resin, wood
The incense opens, resinous and smoky. The resin occupies the middle. Wood closes the fragrance: Neiman Marcus adds it to the other two materials where Now Smell This and Thomas Dunckley name the sap.
Crystallized sap
Crystallized sap is the material the house puts forward most, without giving it a tier or specifying the tree it comes from.
What the critic hears there
Thomas Dunckley finds in it a smoky, sweet incense accompanied by pine, with a cold, mentholated nuance. Neither pine nor mint appears in the house’s description.
What the label declares
Seventeen entries: denatured alcohol, fragrance, water, three ultraviolet filters, seven regulated allergens — linalool, limonene, geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, citral, benzyl benzoate — and four colourings, a blue, a violet, a yellow and a red. No substance banned in the European Union appears there.
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Similar notes and family, from other houses.
- Angel DustFugazzi
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- MYSLF Le ParfumYves Saint Laurent
- Many Different StoriesFloraïku
- This is Him ! Burning LoveZadig & Voltaire
- Noisetier CrémeuxL'Occitane
- Shiu 25Le Labo
- Costa AzzurraTom Ford
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Also composed by Daphné Bugey
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