Cuir Grenat was released in 2023 in the Les Merveilles collection by L’Artisan Parfumeur. Christophe Raynaud tells the story of a Moroccan leather workshop: a grainy raspberry opens the composition, a leather shot through with amber flashes answers it, and Ambrofix holds the base with its woody warmth. The house was seeking a scent that would convey the sensation of touch.
Raspberry
The announced opening belongs to raspberry, which the house describes as grainy like leather and velvety like suede. The fruit arrives tart rather than candied, and already carries the deep red from which the fragrance takes its name.
Leather and amber flashes
The central register belongs to leather, radiant, shot through with amber flashes. Around it revolve a pink pepper, an incense and a cedar that the announced accord does not name, along with a powdery violet that softens the material and rounds off its edge.
Ambrofix
The base rests on Ambrofix, an amber molecule that is both woody and mineral, which gives the composition its length and warmth. A musk accompanies it and smooths its edges without sweetening anything.
What the label declares
The label declares alpha-isomethyl ionone, which signs the powdery violet that the announced accord says nothing about, and coumarin, with its dried grass and almond sweetness. Limonene and citral carry a citrus facet absent from the house’s discourse.
Linalool adds a soft floral note, cinnamal a cinnamon note, citronellol and geraniol rosy facets. A sun filter completes the list and protects the juice from light.