The third installment of the line opened in 2012, Jour d’Hermès Absolu appeared in 2014 under the signature of Jean-Claude Ellena. The perfumer tightens the bouquet of the first Jour around three raw materials — gardenia, sambac jasmine, apricot blossom — and gives the base a footing of oakmoss that pulls the whole toward chypre. The bottle is designed by Pierre Hardy.
A white bouquet that the apricot rounds out and the oakmoss darkens: the Absolu takes the frame of the first Jour and loads it.
What the house declares
Three raw materials, no tier: gardenia, sambac jasmine, apricot blossom. Hermès stops there, and that is little for a composition whose reviewers describe a movement.
The tiering comes from the reviews
Robin, at Now Smell This, places gardenia and jasmine in the heart and notes that the apricot runs quietly through to the drydown, where the base turns warmer and earthier than in the original version. The order written here takes up that division, for want of a tiering published by the house.
Oakmoss
Osmoz attributes to oakmoss, the evernia prunastri of the ingredient list, the chypre turn that sets the Absolu apart from its model. The material does appear in the declared formula.
What stays outside
The house speaks of apricot blossom, a flower note rather than a fruit note. The grapefruit that other descriptions attribute to it is not declared by Hermès.
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More perfumes from Hermès
Also composed by Jean-Claude Ellena
- First Eau de ToiletteVan Cleef & Arpels
- Eau de CampagneSisley
- In Love AgainYves Saint Laurent
- Dia WomanAmouage