Angel

A fragrance of contrasts

For Victoria Frolova, who gave it five stars on Bois de Jasmin in March 2011, Angel is the most polarizing and most memorable fragrance of its generation. She sees it as a textbook case: quality juice, a strong character, a recognizable signature and time to take hold.

The reviewer describes an opening of effervescent citrus and tart berries, where caramel and honey rise against a dry, earthy patchouli. An abstract, watery accord lightens the gourmand richness; the base slides toward bitter chocolate, patchouli and almond praline.

She points out the paradox of a richly laden composition that never turns opaque, and which the peppery bergamot paired with patchouli makes almost masculine. Its detractors, she adds, consider it the most vulgar perfume there is; she reads in it decadence and seduction pushed to the extreme.

A cosmic drag queen

Thomas Dunckley, writing on The Candy Perfume Boy in September 2011, refuses to see it as a mere sugary gourmand. He describes an abundant opening mixing tropical fruits, bitter dark chocolate, sparkling aldehydes and a massive patchouli.

For him, everything hinges on the opposition between a patchouli with a masculine temperament and more feminine edible notes: this contrast makes Angel’s charm and explains why the fragrance seemed so innovative on its release.