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A*Men

A*Men is the eau de toilette Jacques Huclier composed for Thierry Mugler in 1996, the designer’s first men’s fragrance and the counterpart to Angel. The house calls it a woody, robust oriental: bergamot, lavender and mint at the top, coffee, patchouli and a tar note at the heart, tonka bean, caramel, chocolate and musk in the base, beneath the brand’s blue star.

The Candy Perfume Boy considered A*Men in 2012 one of the greatest men’s fragrances of its time, a spectacular gourmand; Kevin, on Now Smell This, judged it in 2008 unpleasant from start to finish, perhaps the ugliest scent he had ever worn.

What critics say

The Candy Perfume Boy, February 2012

On February 10, 2012, the blogger admits he first found Angel and A*Men overwhelming, before buying both after repeated wearings. The opening is loud: bright bergamot, camphoraceous lavender and peppermint work well together.

He sees A*Men as a pure gourmand, where chocolate, caramel and vanilla meet patchouli, with the tar adding a burnt contrast that is hard to describe but very effective. The creamy, almost edible base is his favorite part.

A spectacular, masculine counterpart to Angel, A*Men may not suit serious occasions, but he counts it among the greatest men’s fragrances of modern times.

Now Smell This, April 2008

On April 3, 2008, Kevin had avoided A*Men for ten years and says it confirmed his fears. The opening mixes sour herbal notes with a chemical chocolate powder; a metallic vanilla and a rancid cocoa appear after a few minutes.

The base does not soften: burnt, stale coffee, tar, coffee and cocoa dregs, moldy patchouli. He considers it the ugliest fragrance he has ever worn, and finds the advertising, with its robot man, just as unappealing.