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A*Men
Thierry Mugler

Composition

A*Men

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A*Men is the eau de toilette Jacques Huclier composed for Thierry Mugler in 1996, the designer’s first men’s fragrance and the counterpart to Angel. The house calls it a woody, robust oriental: bergamot, lavender and mint at the top, coffee, patchouli and a tar note at the heart, tonka bean, caramel, chocolate and musk in the base, beneath the brand’s blue star.

Mugler now describes A*Men through two dimensions, a fiery dimension carried by patchouli and a robust dimension carried by a coffee absolute. The Candy Perfume Boy divides the composition into three tiers: bergamot, helional, lavender and peppermint at the top, coffee, tar and patchouli at the heart, tonka bean, vanilla, caramel, chocolate and musk in the base.

An aromatic opening

Bergamot and camphoraceous lavender combine with peppermint in an opening The Candy Perfume Boy finds loud but well matched. Now Smell This also lists coriander, Atlas cedar and aldehydes.

Coffee, patchouli and tar

Roasted coffee and patchouli form the heart, heightened by a tar note that Now Smell This links to styrax. For The Candy Perfume Boy, this tar brings a burnt, rubbery contrast that gives earthiness to the gourmand and sharpens the mint and lavender.

A gourmand base

Tonka bean, caramel, chocolate and musk make up the base. Once the patchouli and tar have faded, The Candy Perfume Boy finds a creamy, sweet base of vanilla, chocolate and caramel, almost edible.