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31 rue Cambon

31 Rue Cambon is the oakmoss-free chypre Jacques Polge composed in 2007 for Chanel’s Les Exclusifs collection, in tribute to the address of the couture house. Chanel describes it as an accord of iris, black pepper and vetiver, accompanied by bergamot, jasmine and patchouli.

Robin, on Now Smell This, considered it in 2007 the best of the Exclusifs; Kafkaesque, in 2013, praises a sparkling opening and is puzzled by a capricious presence.

What critics say

Now Smell This, March 2007

Robin, on 12 March 2007, sees 31 Rue Cambon as the best of the collection. The fragrance opens on bright, rich citrus and moves into a stylised floral bouquet over a very dry chypre base, with an earthy quality that recalls oakmoss without imitating it.

She finds the peppery iris in the base lovely, judges the fragrance chic, spare and modern, and the only one in the series she would recognise in passing.

Kafkaesque, March 2013

Kafkaesque, on 6 March 2013, smells it open on lemony bergamot and light, fizzy aldehydes, joined by jasmine; iris, pepper and a vetiver green at first and earthier over time come forward after half an hour.

The critic describes a light, gauzy fragrance with a capricious character: it vanishes after an hour, returns at the second, stronger, and fades again several times.

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