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31 rue Cambon
Chanel

Composition

31 rue Cambon

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31 Rue Cambon is the oakmoss-free chypre Jacques Polge composed in 2007 for Chanel’s Les Exclusifs collection, in tribute to the address of the couture house. Chanel describes it as an accord of iris, black pepper and vetiver, accompanied by bergamot, jasmine and patchouli.

Chanel describes a striking and complex accord of iris, black pepper and vetiver. Jacques Polge, in 2007, spoke of an oakmoss-free chypre with a dry, musky, nutty scent; bergamot, jasmine and patchouli complete the published notes.

A chypre without moss

The classic chypre rests on oakmoss, which regulation now restricts. 31 Rue Cambon does without it, but keeps the dryness and earthiness that evoke it.

Iris and pepper

Iris brings a powdery note that the dryness of black pepper keeps from growing heavy; vetiver, green at first, turns earthier over time.

What the label declares

The house’s list opens with alcohol, fragrance, bergamot oil and water. It names jasmine, rose, patchouli, bitter orange peel, cananga, orange flower and narcissus oils and extracts, and sandalwood oil, with vanillin and coumarin.

It also lists tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, woody, santalol and a series of declared allergens, from limonene to benzaldehyde.

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