Launched by Cartier in 2020, Pasha de Cartier Parfum gives the 1992 Pasha fougère a denser version, turned toward sandalwood and amber. Mathilde Laurent places sandalwood and patchouli at the top, cistus in the middle, benzoin and tonka bean in the base. The bottle keeps the gadroons and blue cabochon of the watch. Varanis Ridari sees it as a Pasha apart.
Here Cartier describes its fougère signature, made more powerful by soft sandalwood notes, for a sensual, ambery trail. The notes released by the house place sandalwood and patchouli at the top, cistus in the middle, benzoin and tonka bean in the base.
Sandalwood, balsam fir and ambrocenide
The press kit extends the list to balsam fir, labdanum and ambrocenide, a woody ambery molecule. It speaks of a contemporary fougère with woody and ambery facets, which keeps the aromatic base of the first Pasha.
Varanis Ridari does not find the lavender of 1992 and describes the mandarin and thyme of the original opening, a honeyed benzoin, a creamy synthetic sandalwood, a patchouli without camphor and a touch of cognac in the base.
What the label declares
The ingredient list published by Cartier opens with alcohol, fragrance and water, followed by tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes and patchouli oil. It includes two UV filters, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and an antioxidant, BHT.
It also names bergamot, lavender, clove, spearmint, orange flower and cananga oils, an oakmoss extract and Peru balsam, along with regulated allergens such as coumarin, vanillin and eugenol.
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