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Calvin Klein

Obsession

Obsession is the feminine eau de parfum Calvin Klein launched in the spring of 1985, composed by Jean Guichard. The brand describes it as a spicy amber: mandarin, bergamot and vanillin, jasmine, orange blossom and spices, oakmoss, musk and amber. Pierre Dinand designed the bottle; its advertising played on provocation, and Kate Moss embodied it in 1993 in front of Mario Sorrenti’s camera.

Launch year
1985
Gender
Unisex
Olfactory family
Oriental
Secondary families
Spicy Woody
Concentration
Eau de Parfum
EAN
0088300603305 (50 ml) · 0088300603404 (100 ml)

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Obsession

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Calvin Klein presents Obsession as a spicy amber, intense and provocative, a blend of botanicals and rare woods that evokes the emotion lodged between love and madness. Wikiparfum files it among the ambers, citrus subfamily; Osmoz among the vanilla orientals.

Calvin Klein’s first great fragrance success

Obsession came out in the spring of 1985 at Calvin Klein Cosmetics, which Robert R. Taylor had bought in 1980. Robin, on Now Smell This, calls it the brand’s first fragrance blockbuster, far ahead of Calvin Klein for women and Calvin for men, both since discontinued.

Calvin Klein told Women’s Wear Daily in January 1985 that the name was as big as a movie poster, in the image of a decade in which everyone was obsessed. He said he wanted to evoke a woman who allows herself a romantic obsession and invites a man to share it.

A department-store success

Robin reports that the fragrance, carried by steamy advertising and scent strips slipped into magazines, sold out in many stores before the first shipment even arrived. By 1987 it was rivaling Giorgio, then the top-selling fragrance in the United States.

The brand says today that Obsession revolutionized prestige fragrance with its feverish intensity. It still sells it as an eau de parfum, in 30, 50 and 100 ml; the line gave rise to Obsession for Men and, in 2017, to Obsessed, which takes up its name and its images.

Olfactory pyramid

  1. Top notesThe first minutes
  2. Heart notesThe heart of the perfume
  3. Base notesWhat lingers

What critics say

Robin (Now Smell This) finds it more wearable than she remembered; Luca Turin, a triumph of timing over substance; Varanis Ridari, a classic to smell.

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What the community says

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The advertising

Between love and madness

Launched in 1985 with provocative television films, Obsession took on the face of Kate Moss in 1993, photographed by Mario Sorrenti.

In 1985, Calvin Klein Cosmetics, then in the hands of Robert R. Taylor, launched Obsession with television films built on the tagline “Between love and madness lies obsession.” They show a capricious, elusive young woman; Artforum sees in them a pretentious family, three generations of men and an older woman, driven wild by her.

In 1993, the campaign moved to Kate Moss, eighteen, photographed and filmed by Mario Sorrenti, twenty, her boyfriend at the time, on an island in the Virgin Islands. Kate Moss would later say that the shoot lasted ten days and that Sorrenti, too, was obsessed.

In 2017, for Obsessed, Raf Simons reused unseen images from that shoot: to him, Sorrenti’s campaign with Kate Moss summed up Calvin Klein in a single image.