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N°19
Chanel

Composition

N°19

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N°19 was launched by Chanel in 1970 and composed by Henri Robert, the house’s perfumer. It is the last fragrance Gabrielle Chanel launched and wore: its number recalls her birthday, August 19. A floral-woody-green built on the contrast of galbanum and iris pallida, with rose and neroli, sold as an eau de parfum, an eau de toilette, and a Poudré version.

Chanel publishes no detailed pyramid. The house names galbanum, green and bursting, powdery iris pallida, rose, and neroli; its older description spoke of a floral and green accord, May rose and iris from Florence, and a chypre finale with woody vetiver.

What the critics perceive

Angela, of Now Smell This, smells the eau de toilette opening on a cloud of aldehydes, the mark of classic Chanels, which the tart green of galbanum cuts through for a long time; powdery iris and earthy vetiver form a heart that cushions this piercing green, with a touch of sandalwood and clean musk.

Victoria, of Bois de Jasmin, describes the aggressive verdancy of galbanum and the woody duskiness of iris, arranged in harmony, green and vibrant top notes melting into the leathery darkness of the base; she notes that a reformulation has subdued the interplay of vetiver and leather.

What enters the list of notes

Galbanum, neroli, and bergamot open; iris, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, and ylang-ylang hold the heart; vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, leather, and musk form the base. Hyacinth, often cited, is supported neither by the house nor by the critics.

What the label declares

The ingredient list on the house’s page carries the oils of rose, jasmine, bergamot, lemon, orange blossom, and geranium, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, patchouli, vanillin, coumarin, and oakmoss extract, with three colorants that tint the juice.

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