Cartier’s first fragrance, Must was born in 1981, signed by Jean-Jacques Diener. The house presents it as perfumery’s enfant terrible, a grand oriental in which galbanum brings its very green note. The Eau de Toilette now combines galbanum, jasmine and vanilla in an oval bottle, guilloché with gadroons and gold in color.
Cartier reduces the Eau de Toilette to three materials: galbanum, jasmine and vanilla. Michael Edwards broke down the original composition as follows: galbanum, mandarin and neroli at the top; rose, narcissus and jasmine for the heart; vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, tonka bean and civet in the base.
A list attributed to Haarmann & Reimer, also cited by Yesterday’s Perfume, adds bergamot, aldehydes, lemon, rosewood and peach in the opening, iris, carnation, orchid, ylang-ylang and leather for the heart, and benzoin, opoponax and oakmoss for the base.
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