L'Orpheline

Serge Lutens does not publish a detailed list of notes. The notes the house highlights are limited to incense, castoreum and musk; Now Smell This takes incense, ashes and musk from the press kit.

Incense therefore holds the heart and musk the base. Castoreum, mentioned only in the commercial description, remains described in prose, like the ashes evoked at the launch, which belong to imagery more than to the formula.

What the critics perceive

Elena Vosnaki, of Perfume Shrine, smells frankincense in it, the impression of a bittersweet myrrh and a peppery, acrid note that she likens to elemi, cumin or ginger, with a spicy heart between mace and cumin.

Dariush Alavi, of Persolaise, describes an incense that reaches a downy base, a velvety and dusty powder, lifted by a benzoin facet. Victoria, of Bois de Jasmin, perceives above all a sharp, mineral note that dominates the whole.

What stays out

The lavender, mint, myrrh, spices and patchouli perceived by some critics do not appear in the house’s description and remain described in prose, without entering the list of notes.