
Jicky is the fragrance Aimé Guerlain created in 1889, which the house presents as the first modern perfume, one of the first to use vanillin and coumarin. This amber fougère sets the freshness of a lemony lavender and an accord of bergamot, lavender and rosemary against the warmth of woods and vanilla, and blurs the line between feminine and masculine.
Victoria Frolova sees Jicky as a timeless and remarkably modern classic, but considers the reformulated version a disappointment, with a cleaner base.
What critics say
A modern classic
For Victoria Frolova, who devoted a 2005 Bois de Jasmin review to Jicky before and after reformulation, the fragrance is both a timeless classic and a remarkably modern creation.
She describes a character driven by an effervescent aromatic note of lavender, bergamot, thyme and rosemary, set against musk, civet and vanilla.
The reformulation
Among Guerlain’s reformulated classics, Jicky is for her the main disappointment: the animalic, musky accord relied on nitro musks and natural civet, since replaced, and the base has become cleaner.
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