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Fleur du Mâle

Fleur du Mâle is the men's Eau de Toilette that Francis Kurkdjian composed in 2007 for Jean Paul Gaultier, twelve years after Le Mâle: an orange blossom carried in the heart of a men's fragrance, between the green freshness of petitgrain and the powdery sweetness of coumarin. A bust lacquered in white, a campaign by Jean-Baptiste Mondino with Andres Velencoso. Discontinued, it returns in 2026 under a formula the house has not published.

Jean Paul Gaultier, in 2007, published only three raw materials: orange blossom in the heart, petitgrain in the top notes, coumarin in the base. The listing retains inherited notes, lavender, bergamot and basil in the top notes, geranium in the heart, benzoin, vetiver and vanilla in the base, which neither the house nor the reviews confirm.

Petitgrain and orange blossom in the top notes

Doré describes a very fresh opening, all innocence, petitgrain and orange blossom, natural and sparkling, quite feminine, almost childlike, like an eau de cologne. Dunckley perceives a green, woody petitgrain and an overdosed orange blossom, the effect of fresh pollen, each part pushed to the extreme.

Orange blossom and fougère in the heart

The masculine facet is not long in coming, Doré writes: a fougère accord, clean and classic, which joins the geranium in the listing. Dunckley classifies Fleur du Mâle as fougère as much as floral; a reader of his review perceives only the fougère and not the orange blossom, which he attributes to the coumarin.

Coumarin and animalic notes in the base

Coumarin closes the house's reading. Doré sees an army of animalic notes emerge from the shadows, costus, powdery and musky, violent and gripping, already muted in Le Mâle and here pushed to the forefront, down to a strange plaster-like smell, powdery and suffocating.

What remains outside the declared accord

The costus and musks that Doré names, the lavender, basil, benzoin and vetiver from the listing, appear neither in the 2007 press release nor in Dunckley's review; the house has not published an ingredients list. Auparfum classifies it as amber; the listing keeps it floral, aromatic and fougère.