Diorling appeared in 1963, the first fragrance Dior launched after the couturier's death, and Paul Vacher signed the formula. A leathery chypre built on English style, on tweed and riding boots. François Demachy reorchestrated it for Les Créations de Monsieur Dior: bergamot at the opening, jasmine at the centre, leather and patchouli at the base.
The Silver Fox praised a respectful, wearable reissue in 2014, its leather quieter than Vacher's, and holds the original to be gone for good.
Olfastory’s review
The Silver Fox, ÇaFleureBon, 18 October 2014
The site's senior editor judges the reorchestration a success. Demachy, he writes, avoided facsimile and pastiche, for a fragrance of vintage reference and genuine modern wearability.
He describes a bergamot opening that brings sparkle and joy, a jasmine that swells the centre, a patchouli that anchors the formula in the present. The leather, more muted, takes its time.
His verdict stays clear on the gap with the original, which he says is gone forever. He finds sensual meat on the resurrected bones, and holds the new Diorling to be a subtle lover with leathered secrets.