Cerruti launched 1881 pour Homme in 1990, composed by Martin Gras. Its name recalls the year the Cerruti family founded its wool business in Biella. The house describes it as green, woody and spicy: juniper, cypress and lavender on top, a heart of vetiver, ylang-ylang and rose, a base of moss, pine and sandalwood. Serge Mansau designed its frosted glass bottle.
The current composition, as declared by the house, opens on an aromatic cluster: juniper, cypress, lavender and bergamot, lifted by carnation, elemi resin and galbanum. It is a top of herbs and conifers far more than of citrus.
A floral, spicy heart
The heart pairs vetiver with a bouquet of ylang-ylang, rose and lily of the valley, which cassia makes slightly spicy. Vetiver, present from this stage on, gives the bouquet a dry, earthy footing.
A base of moss and woods
The base brings together oakmoss, pine, cedar, sandalwood and patchouli, with musk and a touch of pepper. The ingredient list printed on the box includes no moss extract.
Older descriptions
Descriptions from the launch sketch a more citrusy, more chypre fragrance. The encyclopedia Perfume Intelligence classifies it among citrus-woody chypres and names juniper, blackcurrant, galbanum, amber, moss, wormwood and benzoin.
Osmoz gives a shorter reading: bergamot and blackcurrant on top, lavender and vetiver in the heart, cedar, patchouli and oakmoss in the base. Blackcurrant, present in both descriptions, no longer appears among the notes the house declares.
What stays out
Note lists in the trade vary widely: some add lemon, basil, rosemary, balsam fir or amber. The notes retained here are those of the house’s current list; the others belong to older or isolated readings.
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