The olfactory story of Calèche by Hermès. What an odd idea to name a perfume Calèche. Indeed, this term refers to a horse-drawn carriage that was very common in the early nineteenth century. Nevertheless, rest assured, Calèche is not a perfume that smells like the horse-drawn vehicle or horses.
Calèche by Hermès is a legendary perfume that came into being in 1961. Composed by perfumer Guy Robert, it is an iconic feminine fragrance from the house. Floral, woody, and chypre, this feminine fragrance evokes the house's love for the equestrian world, while symbolizing the sensuality of the last century. Marked by a certain floral exuberance, Calèche by Hermès is described by the house's current perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena, as the essence of classicism. Seduction through the beauty of being. So, what is the reality? Here is our review of this perfume.
Olfastory’s review
The calèche, a whole symbol for the house of Hermès
First of all, if this perfume seduces us, it is not solely through its scent. Indeed, it also tells a story: that of Hermès and that of one of the most emblematic carriages of nineteenth-century France. At that time, the calèche was the most widely used means of locomotion. Combining practicality with elegance, it was a low-slung carriage, endowed with an incredible ability to highlight the ravishing beauty of women. Indispensable for a city outing, allowing one to move about while parading before the eyes of the world, the calèche quickly became the emblem of Hermès. As proof, it still forms the house's logo today. As you will have understood, the perfume Calèche thus delivers to us a part of Hermès's heritage but also a fragment of the history of France.
A very rich fragrance signed Hermès
Calèche by Hermès also results from exceptional craftsmanship. It travels in turn through different olfactory landscapes, moving from a floral breath to a more aldehydic freshness, before blossoming into a woody, chypre base. It launches on an orangey accord, composed of Bergamot, Mandarin and Orange blossom. Then, its feminine elegance emerges from a bouquet of Egyptian Jasmine, Lily of the valley and Bulgarian Rose. Gardenia, Ylang-ylang and Iris further enhance the whole with a sun-kissed, powdery breath. Little by little, its base grows intoxicated with Oakmoss, Cedar, Vetiver and Sandalwood, in a warmer, more comforting glow. Calèche by Hermès radiates a refined elegance. Let us also note that it is the perfume that affirmed Hermès's expertise as a perfumer, allowing the house to be the first to establish itself in the world of perfumery without having previously come from haute couture.
The bottle, an emblem of Hermès
Finally, when it comes to the bottle, Calèche comes in Hermès's classic and historic bottle. As elegant as it is discreet, it was used for the first time in 1951 for L’Eau d’Hermès. Here again, the house offers us a dive into its history. More specifically, it is a block of glass with softened contours. Referencing the calèche, its shape is inspired by a carriage lamp. Initially, it was adorned with an oval label bearing the Hermès logo. Now, it is simply flanked by an embossed label on which its name is inscribed.